Mehdi Gholi Beyk Historical Bath
- heliya erfani
- 8 months ago
Mahdi Gholi Beik Bath or Mashhad Ethnological Museum.
Bathhouses, among the most significant public spaces in Iran, have a rich and ancient history. This public setting, particularly its role in facilitating social interactions, has held great importance. Consequently, the construction of public bathhouses as commercial or charitable ventures has always attracted the attention of influential figures and wealthy individuals in society. Typically, such buildings were either established as endowments or inherited properties in most towns and villages. Stay tuned to Sepehran’s blog.
The historical building of Mehdi Gholi Beik, located in Mashhad, is one of the largest bathhouses in Iran. Upon entering, you will be greeted by the beautiful structure of an old bathhouse. This ancient building, with its stunning, unique, and colorful ceiling, dates back to the Safavid era. It is situated next to an old mosque in Mashhad called Shah Mosque, and for a long time, it was known as “Shah Bathhouse.”
However, after the Islamic Revolution, its name was changed to Razavi Bathhouse. Furthermore, this ancient bathhouse is located near the Holy Shrine of Imam Reza and the old carpet sellers’ market in Mashhad, making it easily accessible.
Built in the year 1300 of the Persian calendar by an individual named Mehdi Gholi Beik, the bathhouse was endowed to the public. The benefactor’s name is still preserved on the bathhouse. In Ordibehesht 1356, with the registration number 1374, the bathhouse was listed among the national historical sites of the country, proving its invaluable worth. In the past, this bathhouse served the public for many years. However, with the advent of piped water and in-house bathrooms, it gradually fell out of use.
Consequently, it was neglected for a period until the Cultural Heritage Organization and Astan Quds jointly decided to renovate it. The renovation process began in the year 1378, during which various parts of the bathhouse, such as the main entrance, the entrance octagon, dressing room, hot chamber, intermediary room, treasury, catwalk space, furnace, cleaning room, and the pool pit underwent restoration. The total area of the bathhouse reached approximately 2000 square meters.
Mehdi Gholi Beik is located in Mashhad, at the beginning of the big market, next to the Shah Mosque. This historical structure was registered as one of the national monuments of Iran on May 5, 1356, with the registration number 1374.
The “Mehdi Gholi Beik Bathhouse” is among the largest bathhouses in Iran. Constructed in 1027 AH (lunar) under the command of “Mehdi Gholi Beik Mirakhur Bashi” (Chief of the Royal Stable), it was endowed and placed under the custodianship of the Rezavi Shrine. Gholi Beik belonged to the Jaghatai tribe and was one of the Turkic commanders in Khorasan, historically mentioned as the leader of Khorasani riflemen.
Due to its proximity to historical structures like the Shah Mosque (the mausoleum of Amir Malekshah), the Mosque of the 72 Martyrs, and its closeness to the Holy Shrine of Imam Reza, it was known as the “Shah Bathhouse” before the revolution and later as the “Razavi Bathhouse.” It remained operational until 1367 AH. After the bathhouse ceased its operations, it gradually deteriorated and was left abandoned. However, in 1376 AH, it was registered with the number 1374 among the national historical monuments. By 1378 AH, its restoration process began. Upon completing this renovation in 1385 AH, the bathhouse was repurposed and began operations as the Anthropology Museum of Astan Quds Razavi.
The primary structure of the building is made of brick, with lime, sarooj (a traditional mortar), stone, glass, tile, and metal also used in its construction. So, the architectural elements currently present in the building include an octagonal entrance, a changing room (sarbineh), the pool of the changing room, the royal seating (shah-neshin), an intermediate space (miyandar), a hot room (garmkhaneh), a cleansing room, a treasury, a private chamber, a pool recess, a steam room (toon), and so on.
The entrance courtyard is connected to a small octagonal space via a gently sloping staircase, which, after passing five steps and turning right, leads to the sarbineh (dressing room). In the center of this space, there’s an octagonal pool surrounded by four raised platforms (suffa) for seating. So, the largest of these platforms, known as shah-neshin, was designated for the nobility and elite, while the other three were for the general public to use for changing clothes. Apart from its primary function, the sarbineh was also the best place for relaxation after bathing, drinking tea, smoking hookah, chatting, and meeting friends and locals, thus transforming it into one of the social elements of urban architecture.
The bathhouse’s lighting system is facilitated by 55 skylights (goljam) integrated into the domed ceilings throughout the structure. In the sarbineh space, eight stone columns arranged in an octagonal pattern support the dome. The arches used in the sarbineh are of the five, seven, and ibex horn types, inspired by the Isfahani architectural style. The ceiling’s decorative patterns (kari-band) are also counted among the building’s architectural adornments.
So, the entire sarbineh space is decorated with features such as paintings and tilework. Specifically, the tiles are of the underglaze variety, bearing an eight-pointed star motif surrounded by Khatai (Chinese-inspired) and geometric patterns. This section possesses plaster and sarooj work comprising 28 layers, 13 of which feature painted decorations portraying themes like stories from the Shahnameh, heroes, popular and ancient folklore, scenes from social life and old neighborhoods of Mashhad, the introduction of technology to Iran, the twelve zodiac signs, and more. The oldest layer of these paintings dates back to the Safavid period, while the most recent ones belong to the late Qajar era.
The main hallway (miyandar) serves as the principal connecting space in the bathhouse, bridging the changing room (sarbineh) and the hot chamber. It plays a crucial role in reducing heat exchange between these two areas. People would enter the hot chamber through this corridor (eastern door). Another significant area in the bathhouse is the foot-washing pool, designed in an octagonal shape. It includes a small pool where individuals could rinse their feet with cold water after leaving the hot chamber, preparing them for entering the changing room. The octagonal design helps in dissipating body heat through the soles of the feet.
Upon passing through the hallway, one enters the hot chamber, the main bathing area. The hot chamber features a square layout with four columns in the center and a domed ceiling adorned with several skylights. Surrounding the hot chamber are three platforms used for sitting, bathing, scrubbing, applying soap, massage, and other purposes.
The western part of the hot chamber houses the hot water reservoir, situated at a higher level than the hot chamber floor and separated by a short entrance and several steps. People would enter this section to cleanse and pour water. The floor of the reservoir contains three copper cauldrons as its only installations.
Two rooms flank the reservoir. The northern room houses three water purification basins. The other room (private chamber) was specifically for those with disabilities or contagious diseases. Patients could access hot water via a hatch connecting to the reservoir.
The “fireplace” or “Golkhan” is located behind the reservoir, serving as the bathhouse’s main source of thermal energy. So, the heating system comprises fuel storage, an oven, underground channels, and a chimney. The person responsible for fuel and heating was called “Tun-tab”.
For fuel, wood, thorns, small twigs, and animal waste were placed in the oven beneath the cauldrons and then lit. So, the heat and smoke from the oven were channeled through underground passages and vented out through several chimneys.
The underground channels were large enough for a person to enter in a stooped posture for potential repairs or cleaning. The ash residue in the oven channel was used in making sarooj mortar.
Another indoor space in the bathhouse is the cold water pool room, located on the southern side. It is a large rectangular space of moderate height, containing a large pool filled with cold water. In the summer, after bathing, it was used for swimming and relaxation.
How to get to Mehdi Goli Beik Bathhouse!
Located at the end of the Mashhad Carpet Market (Mashhad Grand Bazaar) also known as Shah’s Bath, it is to the west of the Mosque of 72 Martyrs.
If you are walking from Bab Al-Jawad towards the bathhouse, before entering the shrine area, turn left towards Sarshoor Bazaar until you reach the market. The entrance to the Mehdi Gholi Beik Bathhouse, also known as the Mashhad Anthropology Museum, is located roughly in the middle of the market (Andarzgoo 17).
If you are coming from Ghadir courtyard and Imam Reza’s Dar-al-Shifa, you can find the route to the Anthropology Museum using the signposts within the shrine.
If you are using the metro to reach this historical site, alight at Basij Square. After a short walk, proceed to Beit-ul-Moqaddas Square and then to Andarzgoo Street, heading towards Sarshoor Bazaar.
If you’re using Metro Line 2 to visit this historical attraction, get off at Martyrs’ station and follow the guiding signboards through Shirazi Street and the Ghadir courtyard entrance towards the historical building of Mehdi Gholi Beik.
If you are using city transportation such as buses to reach this historical site in Mashhad, you can take bus numbers 82, 62, 210, or 86, which stop at Andarzgoo Street opposite Bab Al-Jawad. From there, head towards Sarshoor Bazaar and the bathhouse.
If you are using a personal vehicle to visit this historical site, please note that if you’re coming from the Dialameh and Andarzgoo route, you won’t have car access due to the one-way street. However, other routes are accessible. The closest parking to the Mehdi Gholi Beik complex is the shrine parking.
Some of the attractions in Mashhad that are close to the bathhouse include:
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Essential information of Mehdi Gholi beik bath |
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Bathroom Address |
Mashhad, Andarzgo St., Sarshor Bazaar, next to the mosque |
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Phone Number |
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Visiting Hours |
8 am to 6 pm |
| The Cost of Visiting |
2000 Tomans |
